DEMYSTIFY THE INCI LIST

Do you know what is the INCI list? It is the list of cosmetic ingredients on product packaging. Why INCI? For International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Acaderme will help you see more clearly when it comes to reading, but above all understanding, the list of ingredients on a cosmetic product.

A reference recognized worldwide … or almost.

The INCI list as we know it today was created in 1973 by the Personnal Care Consult, in order to standardize the nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients on products. This way, it became easier for everyone to navigate, beauticians, scientists, researchers, formulators, doctors, clients, in short, everyone! Since then, the vast majority of countries have complied with it, with the exception of China, which often has its own regulations on product formulation.

The INCI list: Can you rely on it?

The answer is NO! There are several manufacturers of raw materials in the world and therefore cosmetic brands can source their ingredients from different suppliers, thus varying the quality and purity of the material. So, for 2 products with the same list of ingredients, the final product quality may vary depending on the choice of material. Just like groceries, where the ingredients come from will often make all the difference in cost and quality.

The origin of the ingredient, natural or synthetic can also vary. An ingredient of natural origin is a plant extract modified in the laboratory for optimal efficiency, while a synthetic ingredient is made and modified directly in the laboratory, as is the case with hyaluronic acid, for example. There are several differences between the ingredients of natural and synthetic origins, but the best known remains the fact that the synthetic ingredient will not contain allergenic molecules, since they are eliminated in the laboratory, whereas the original natural product might still have them.

Are we being told everything about the composition of cosmetic products?

Cosmetic manufacturers are required to disclose the list of ingredients of each of their products, from the ingredient most present to the least present in the formulation. Water and texture agents will therefore be in the first ranks, up to the famous 1% and less bar.

From this point on, it is no longer necessary to list the ingredients according to their proportion in their product. Manufacturers can therefore choose the order of presence themselves so as to artificially place certain products at the very end of the list, leading customers to believe that it is, wrongly, the ingredient least present in the composition. However, do not believe that a product for which the key ingredients are found at the bottom of the INCI list would not be effective, quite the contrary. It can sometimes be present in smaller amounts, so as to have a greater effectiveness in reaction with the other ingredients present. Remember that the watchword in cosmetic formulation will always remain less is more!

The importance of science!

Chemists and formulators are indispensable in the cosmetics industry. They are nothing less than the “brains of the creams”. Although the INCI list may seem similar between 2 products, the formulation process made by different scientists may be different from one product to another, for the different reasons listed above.

So why don’t 2 products with the same list of ingredients sell for the same price? Tell yourself that the price is often a function of the formulation and the raw materials which are not always of the same quality. And of course, the brand’s history, its notoriety, its level of research and development as well as its reliability index are other very relevant reasons for setting the price of a cosmetic product. For other tips and advice related to the composition of the products, your Acaderme experts are there for you!